The Magliano man is wild and free
Howling at the moon
Do any of the other young brands in Milan have an identity as strong as Magliano? Still in its first decade, Luca Magliano’s namesake brand constantly feels like the weirdo outcast in the still sartorially traditional Milan menswear schedule. But this is perhaps its greatest strength. In London, pairing suit blazers and grey tracksuit bottoms, which has become a staple silhouette in Magliano’s runway, would barely cause a ruckus. However, in the context of Milan, and only a few days after Pitti Uomo, such an outfit can be seen as a brash work of iconoclasm, blissfully flipping the bird to strictures of Italian tailoring.
And it was along these lines that Magliano continued for FW25, a collection that was as playful and irreverent as it was, simply, beautiful. And does any accessory sum up Magliano better than the black leather belt in the collection’s first look, manipulated to look like a coquettish bow? Black leather, the sexiest material, meets kitsch. Elsewhere, underwear wrapped around handbags.
The designer’s love for big, grey, 80s Armani-style suits was once again evident this season and, equally, his love for big 80s hair. Nudo by Magliano, a new line, was launched dedicated to “a reinterpretation of the basics,” according to the show notes. The models looked somewhere between Harmony Korine’s The Beach Bum and lunatics howling at the moon. It was all incredibly Magliano.
