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Toyama prefecture sits a couple of hours north-west of Tokyo via bullet train. It’s a tranquil, agricultural region, not much visited by tourists, with rice fields that are, by turns, mirrored, green and verdant or muddy, depending on the time of year. Beyond lie the Tateyama mountains, a wild and largely unpopulated idyll, which snakes uninterrupted for many miles. A visit in late October finds the first frosts already biting its foggy peaks.
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