Marni’s "The Pink Sun" Collection
Marni rises above trend culture for FW25
Yesterday’s Marni show, titled ‘The Pink Sun’ was a true expression of breath-catching craftsmanship, with Creative Director Francesco Risso serving up inventive silhouettes, a contrasting yet complimentary mishmash of textures and fabrics, and timeless garments that bypassed trends.
The runway took place at Marni’s Milan headquarters, which had been transformed into a cabaret. Cloth hand-painted by the Marni team bathed tables and stools, while waiters dressed in the brand delivered Martini spritzes to guests (who doesn’t want to get borderline lit at a show?). The event was soundtracked by live music at the hands of British musician Dev Hynes, who has been creating original soundtracks for Marni’s runways since 2021. The walls were covered in painted canvases that Risso collaborated on with Nigerian artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend over a month-long residency. Meanwhile, Amelia Gray, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Paloma Elsesser were among the lineup.
The collection’s standout looks came in the form of a pink, shiny silk v-neck top with a giant fur figure attached to the shoulder worn over a pleated brown and green silk skirt, a flower-embroidered cyan dress that gave way to fur-rimmed tulle yellow tulle (worn with a necktie that trailed along the catwalk like veil), and a velvet chocolate double-breasted blazer and skirt, the detached pleats of which swayed to reveal blue satin lining (tbf, detached pleats are emerging as a trend this season.)
R.E. menswear, the show delivered bumble bee-esque black and yellow jumpers, while Risso played with proportions via billowing trousers in velvet and leather, and extra-long fur stoles. A standout look came in a black crystal wolf embellished across a red suit—a fitting tribute to how Risso, Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend felt during the process. “We were like a pack of happy wolves. We really dared to dream,” remarked Risso in a post-show interview.
